My New Brakes

[Robofuzz]

OK so this weekend I tackled my brakes. Here's what the rusty rotors look like behind my wheels:
http://www.gastiresoil.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=959&stc=1&d=1298841568

Pic of the wheel removed. If you've never had to remove your wheels, or it's been a while since you have, the wheel is likely frozen to the hub. You'll need a rubber mallet to help knock it loose:
http://www.gastiresoil.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=960&stc=1&d=1298841568

Pic of the caliper removed. You'll need a 15mm socket and an 18mm open end wrench to remove the caliper mounting bolts:
http://www.gastiresoil.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=961&stc=1&d=1298841568

Pic of the caliper mounting bracket removed. The bracket is held on (tightly) with two 21mm bolts. You will need a breaker bar or some other force multiplier to persuade these bolts to let go:
http://www.gastiresoil.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=962&stc=1&d=1298841568

Most likely your stock rotor is rusted and frozen to the hub like mine were. Some penetrating lubricant and a rubber mallet really come in handy freeing the rotor from the hub:
http://www.gastiresoil.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=963&stc=1&d=1298841568

A comparison of my front stock rotor and the new DBA rotors (with the centers painted black by me):
http://www.gastiresoil.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=964&stc=1&d=1298841568

New rotor mounted on the hub and temporarily held in place by stock lugnuts. I cleaned up the hub surface with a wire brush and applied some anti-seize so that the rotor does not seize to the hub:
http://www.gastiresoil.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=965&stc=1&d=1298841568

Wheel mounted back on:
http://www.gastiresoil.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=966&stc=1&d=1298841568

Rear wheel removed. Caliper mounting bolts are 15mm, and caliper bracket bolts on the rear are 19mm:
http://www.gastiresoil.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=967&stc=1&d=1298841568

Comparison of stock rear rotor with new DBA rotor (center painted black by me):
http://www.gastiresoil.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=968&stc=1&d=1298841568

[Robofuzz]

New rear rotor mounted:
http://www.gastiresoil.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=969&stc=1&d=1298842546

The finished front brakes:
http://www.gastiresoil.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=970&stc=1&d=1298842546
http://www.gastiresoil.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=972&stc=1&d=1298842546

Finished rear brakes:
http://www.gastiresoil.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=971&stc=1&d=1298842546
http://www.gastiresoil.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=973&stc=1&d=1298842546

[Rabs6point0]

SEXY!!! how long did the whole job take you to complete?

[Robofuzz]

Well it took longer than it should have. I wasn't happy with the way the paint on the rotor hats was not adhering well. So I completey stripped the rotor hats down to bare metal on Saturday and repainted them - this time with VHT caliper spray paint. Last time I brushed Eastwood caliper paint on over the gold colored finish. It was too easily chipping off. I also repainted the front caliper brackets and cleaned the red paint on the calipers. If I hadn't done all that, it would have taken a couple hours.

[court_jester06]

how much and where did you get em? notice any braking difference?

[Robofuzz]

how much and where did you get em? notice any braking difference?

I didn't have a lot of time to play this afternoon. I did the pad bedding procedure and then had to go to work. First impression is the car stops quicker with less pedal pressure. Brakes seem to engage higher in the pedal travel.

Honestly, I bought these rotors about 4 years ago and I don't remember what I paid. It was a special deal someone was running.

[Robofuzz]

The hardest parts of the install:

1) Removing the caliper mounting brackets. These are torque to yield bolts and those were freaking torqued down like a mother. Best method I found was to put a wrench on the bolts and whack the wrench with a 1 lb rubber mallet until they broke loose.

2) Getting the front rotors off the hubs. The rotors had rusted to the hubs. Keep in mind that my car only has 27k miles and rarely sees rain. And those rotors were flat out stuck to the hubs. It took several minutes repeatedly striking the backside of the rotors with the aforementioned rubber mallet to free them up. And this after applying some WD40 and letting it soak in for about 15 minutes.

Tools that are a must have for this:
1) A rubber mallet. This one tool made this job possible.
2) A good set of metric sockets and open end wrenches.
3) A torque wrench that reads ft/lbs. The bolts used in the brakes have specific torque values. Not to mention that the lugnuts need to be properly torqued.

Other stuff you need:
1) Locktite (red and blue).
2) Brake parts grease. Used to keep pads from squealing.
3) Brake cleaner. Don't get this on ANY painted surfaces. I used it sprayed on a rag to clean the rotor friction surfaces on the new rotors.
4) Shop towels.
5) Penetrating oil or WD40.
6) Anti-seize compound.

[oh6 6oh]

Did you re-use the tty bolts?

[Robofuzz]

Did you re-use the tty bolts?
No I had a new set that I bought like four years ago when I got the rotors. But I have heard of people reusing them with red Locktite with no problems. I hear the new TTY bolts are pretty hard to come by now.

[erock]

Wow dude those look awesome! Trade you for a sunroof? ;)

[Robofuzz]

Wow dude those look awesome! Trade you for a sunroof? ;)
Dude - you have no idea how much I want a sunroof like yours! :cool:

[Poolshark1321]

Great writeup Robo!!! Hope those DBA 4000XS rotors dont crack on you in 20k miles/5months like mine did. Granted you probably dont drive it as hard as me, so probably be just fine...

[Robofuzz]

What pads did you use? I'm hearing that DBA is not recommending EDC pads for use on these rotors. I went with Bendix Ultimate pads which is what was recommended and came with the rotors in the package deal I got from JHP a few years ago.

[Kingsize]

So... Now that you have had them on for a little while, what are your initial impressions?

Looks good by the way!

[Robofuzz]

The car definitely stops quicker - it took some getting used to so I didn't give myself whiplash.

Two issues: 1) I get a squeak from the front left brake at slow speed with minimal brake pedal pressure. This seems to come and go and I can't consistently reproduce it. I may regrease the pad ears on that brake. 2) These pads are DUSTY! I am constantly wiping the wheels off.

[Kingsize]

I had those same pads on my 07' Vette, they were very dusty as you said. I ended up with EBC pads after calling and telling them about the way I used the vehicle and my need of a low dust pad. I have been looking at some DBA's for my goat, I may do this in the near future.

[Robofuzz]

Which EBC pads did you end up going with?

[littlecrunch2000]

I was one of the main guys that told DBA not to allow (or recommend) not using EBC. I got my old dba rotors warrantied out due to the rotors warping and one started to crack at a drilled spot. I have since used Hawk pads and never had a single problem since then. I even had a low amount of dust and the pads did not wear that fast. I am just about to get new rotors and so forth and the dba / hawk setup is very likely going to be what I do. Other than that, great write-up Robo.

[Robofuzz]

Which Hawk pads did you go with?

Edit: Nevermind. I just ordered a set of Hawk HPS pads. I'll do a comparison after I install them this weekend.

[Kingsize]

Good selection on the Hawks. :)

I looked up the DBA and EBC issue. Seems it's not a recommended combination for whatever reason. May look into it more later on. My initial guess is the differences in the iron used for making the DBA's.

[Robofuzz]

I installed the Hawk pads today. No more squeal and I sure hope it cuts down on the dust! Those other pads made a mess of my wheels! I'll keep everyone posted after I rack up some miles.

[1wild1]

Nice job. I did mine last month. I went with some drilled and slotted from a friend of mine's website...www.ultrarev.com I'm very happy with the rotors and I've used the Hawk HPS on both the Goat and the Tib. Mehhh...the caliper bolts weren't too bad to break loose just nice and easy one turn to loosen, then back it back on again...then turn to loosen a little more then back on till it works loose. I've seen way too many people get in there with the breaker bar and just yank away trying to loosen the bolts then come into my shop wanting to buy them. For most cars they are special order.

I was rather proud of myself for doing the job and yeah, my rotors needed some persuasion too. I used a small dremmel and some wire brushes to remove the rust on the edge of the hub and cleaned up the whole thing real good before putting on the new rotors. So far I'm pleased with breaking and it is wonderful not feeling a warped rotor anymore. I've got about 6k on the new setup and so far so good.

Next project...the differential as soon as the gears come in. That one I have no clue how to do so I'm hoping to either get help or find someone with know how to do it. I would really like to do it myself with the watchful guidance of someone telling me what to do because ya know, it's pretty awesome saying yeah I did that myself! hehehehe

[MannyLobo]

I'm in line for a brake upgrade, as well. Using BrakeMotive rotors/pads, and upping my calipers to the '05/'06 ones. It's gonna be NICE to finally have some decent brakes. I just gotta finish buying the rest of my crap, first! (Fluid, Permatex, SuperLube, Banjo Bolts, etc etc) :(

[Robofuzz]

Next project...the differential as soon as the gears come in. That one I have no clue how to do so I'm hoping to either get help or find someone with know how to do it. I would really like to do it myself with the watchful guidance of someone telling me what to do because ya know, it's pretty awesome saying yeah I did that myself! hehehehe

I picked up a spare diff to learn how to do it myself and install a TrueTrac:

http://www.gastiresoil.com/showthread.php?p=41854

[1wild1]

I picked up a spare diff to learn how to do it myself and install a TrueTrac:

http://www.gastiresoil.com/showthread.php?p=41854


Yeah I know. I wanted to go that day but had to work. I've emailed Mark but no answer back on how much he would charge me for one. I would like to get a spare so we can build that one and then just unbolt and drop in the rebuilt one. I've got the trutrac, the 3.91s ship tomorrow, got the master seal/bearing kit and I've gotta order the Torco RGO 85w-140. Hopefully after that we will be set to go.

[Robofuzz]

Where are you located? I'd really like to watch/help someone do their diff before I tackle mine.

[1wild1]

I'm in Round Rock, but one of two things is gonna happen. Either my best friend that lives in Killeen will be doing the job and I won't be around to see the work done, or I will be taking the goat to a co-worker's (Bryan) house. Bryan has been building cars since he was a kid and he said he would be willing to guide me...meaning I do all the work myself...through the job. He hasn't done one on a goat but he just did his 67 Monte Carlo and has all the tools to do the goat. I don't know yet. I'm not really confident in my abilities and my friend, Dennis, in Killeen is a platinum certified tech who knows what he is doing. I'm leaning more towards Dennis. I know he would love to have you come learn from him when he does the job. I will mention it to him tomorrow and see what he says. Plus he would LOVE to see your goat and all the mods you've done. Other than me doing the few little things I've done to my goat personnaly, he is the only one who touches any of my cars.

[Brians Goat]

I have the slotted DBA rotors on the front of mine, they have about 30k on them using the semi metallic C5 pads. I have some pad transfer going on with them that just recently started, causing some minor hot spots and shake like they are slightly warped. I called DBA and spoke with them, they were very helpful. I am going to get a local shop to skim the rotors to clean them up, then I will be switching to a Hawk pad, not sure which one yet, most likely the Ceramic Performance pad which is what I orginally was going to use but didn't. I love the rotors, like Robo said, they offer great stopping power with no fade. We did a street tune day last fall with several lets just say "high speed slow downs" back to back with no fade what so ever. I am very pleased with them. I didn't get the drilled ones as every set I have ever been associated with will develp cracks over time from the holes. I am looking forward to hearing how your new pads work for you.

[Robofuzz]

So far the new Hawk pads are not as "grippy" feeling as the Bendix pads, but better than stock. The dust is practically non-existent now. Those Bendix pads were the dustiest pads I've ever used. These Hawk pads are nice and quiet and low dust. So far very pleased.

As far as the rotors, my car only has 27k miles total and less than 3k this last year. So hopefully I won't see any rotor issues, but I'll keep an eye out.

[1wild1]

I had an idiot run a stop sign in front of me today and I had to do a very hard stop, coming within inches of t-boning the moron. I would have liked a firmer stop to say honestly. I did stop well but I don't know if the abs kicked in because I've got my traction control off due to my bad diff or if the brakes weren't all that. I'm kinda leaning towards the former since my goat is eating tires with the bad diff and I'm already almost on slicks again. I didn't feel any harshness or grinding and I didn't really slide per se, it's just I felt the abs kick in on the rear. So far I'm pleased with the Hawk HPS. I also didn't notice any brake fade due to that harsh stop

[GrumpyGoat]

I just did my upgrade to slotted/drilled on friday after finding a cracked and warped pass side rotor, I got them from BrakeMotive, we'll see how they work out, at least my brakes won't be pulsating at every stop.